We are now back to a routine of sorts - school, work, weekly craft classes (I am making a hanji tea table and repeatedly hear "no touchy" and "you - too much glue!"), occasional lunch or play dates and this week, very excitingly, a neighbourhood dinner party where grown-ups made merry (multi-lingually) while children played with a nanny. We must really learn the art of hiring evening wait staff and not hesitating to invite strangers over for late-night meals on weekdays. It's a different world. On the weekends we head out for family fun. At a restaurant a few weeks ago, while admiring our cute children, the waiter said "even though you have two babies - you are not afraid - you still take them out." Indeed out we do take them, but since we had record snowfalls (the most snow in 100 years - ever since they have been keeping records), we have been seeking indoor fun - indoor fun with a three-year-old-sensibility.
Here we are at Changyeongung Palace, built by King Sejong for his father's three Queens in 1484. Very little of the original still stands except for an audience hall from the first rebuilding in 1616, and a greenhouse built by the Japanese during the colonial period when they turned the palace to a pleasure park/zoo/garden in an effort to "diminish the stature and authority of the Korean royal family." We enjoyed the greenhouse and the scenic winter lake-walk, and wished, briefly, that the Colonial overlords were still running their outdoor skating rink and petting zoo. Mostly we are finding a great similarity between the palaces in Seoul, but this one shares a parking lot with the Science Museum, so how could we refuse? 
And here we are at the Railroad museum. This was a bit tricky to find as it is out of town in Bugok, Uiwang (the Seoul one is temporarily closed), but Brian persevered and we found ourselves, with many many of the under 5 set, paying our 90 cents to explore what was railway history as of 1981. There were trains to climb aboard, models to enjoy, and a very comprehensive collection of railroad artifacts - ticket punchers through the ages, signal flags, and "objects pertaining to railroad opening" including display cases of last spikes and scissors used for ribbon cutting. Very thorough are these curatorial staffs. The lady sitting on the train below top centre is a model, hired for the afternoon by a photography club. Since we arrived, all over Seoul we have seen groups of men of varying ages following around their high-heeled, long-haired, elegantly dressed young model as they snap her picture in front of various scenic vistas with a variety of light conditions. Hobbies are very important here.
This is the National Folk Museum of Korea. Consisting of three exhibit halls, two special exhibit spaces, a children's museum and an outdoor "street to the past" where you can enjoy 1960s Seoul, we didn't manage to see it all, but we enjoyed what we did see. We learned about village life and life cycle events, admired Lee Rheeza's designer hanbok (her bojagi hanbok bottom left and maedup-decorated hanbok top left), saw what Iris' first birthday party table should look like and told our children that if they really loved us they would spend several months camped on top of our graves once we died. Jamie and Iris enjoyed playing at the children's museum (based on a folk tale about the filial loyalty of blind Shimchong's daughter) but I'm not sure they learned the required lessons about indefatigably and reliability. There was a ball room though. afterwards we visited a bookstore specializing in English books about Korea (Seoul Selections/Hank's Book cafe) so now we have much reading material. Currently my Korean cultural education is coming from the mini-series IRIS (no really - spies, guns, a secret organization with my daughter's name), but soon I'm sure I will turn to text - I bought a graphic novel that promises to explain the Korean psyche so just you wait. 
Speaking of Iris' birthday (her Tol), much of our time is spent currently planning it. Invitations, caterers, thank-you gifts, photographers, outfits - it's all very exciting. My lovely friend Sun is helping me try to pull off this important Korean passage. Last week she took me to a traditional market to buy the kids their very own Hanbok. (Hanbok alley was only one of the many alleys in the market - wrapping paper alley, bakeware alley, furry hat alley etc.) Here is Sun in street-food-alley where she introduced me to spicy rice cakes, pressed-fish-cake soup, and blood sausage with accompanying organ meat. I ate some of what was on offer, really enjoyed the heated benches, and was pleased to be able to share in some of this vibrant culture on non-foreigner terms.
Near us is the Seoul Arts Center. In addition to opera, theatre, dance and music halls, and museums of calligraphy and traditional music, it boasts a number of art galleries with rotating exhibits. We went to 
see a Matisse and Picasso show, but the lines were too long so instead we saw a very strange exhibit of reproductions of Renaissance frescoes, painstakingly repainted life-sized, and a giant exhibit of children's book illustrations. We ate at a tasty buffet with lots of fresh sushi and crab legs, and then drove up the mountain to gaze on snowy Seocho-gu and admire the mountain temple overlooking the Arts Center. Apparently there is free childcare at the SAC if you have performance tickets, so we might yet see some opera, but life is long and babies are short.
see a Matisse and Picasso show, but the lines were too long so instead we saw a very strange exhibit of reproductions of Renaissance frescoes, painstakingly repainted life-sized, and a giant exhibit of children's book illustrations. We ate at a tasty buffet with lots of fresh sushi and crab legs, and then drove up the mountain to gaze on snowy Seocho-gu and admire the mountain temple overlooking the Arts Center. Apparently there is free childcare at the SAC if you have performance tickets, so we might yet see some opera, but life is long and babies are short. 
And finally, here is Seoul National Science Museum where we can learn about velocity, enjoy the magic mirror hall (there is a reverse mirror, and one that makes it look like you are following yourself down a hall), be a spaceman (like Yi So-yeon, the youngest woman in space), make a balloon-powered car, and discover the history of humankind's fascination with killing and eating the creatures of the wild (early man, top centre, crushes small mammal for breakfast). So, we've been finding lots of indoor outings, and fitting a few uniquely Korean experiences in and among the seeming universality of 3-year-old fun involving trains, pushing buttons, stomping snow and playing toys.
