Seoul Notes

Now that May is coming to a close, I should tidy up a few of these unfinished posts. I always feel so optimistic when I settle down to write one, but inevitably a baby cries; it's time for school pick-up; the children clinging to my legs have started pulling each other's hair or I get distracted by thoughts of laundry or lunch or work emails or a doorbell rings and I simply wander off. And so, in no particular order, and with no particular motif, refrain, or theme, here is some more of Seoul and its environs:

Children's day (May 5th) was a National Holiday here in Seoul (except for the children at the French school - but it was a Wednesday 1/2 day). We were warned that all parks, museums and amusement parks would be crowded beyond enjoyment - so we headed to the National Cemetery for a picnic - as you do. Although we weren't the only ones with this idea, it was a pleasant open-space with a river, tombs, statues, steps, and flowers.
Nami Island was recommended to us for a day-trip, so one Sunday we did the hour-long drive to this "pedestrian" Island. We took a boat to the Island, and then explored via toy train and family bicycle (other options included tandem bikes, toy motor cars, personal golf-carts, electric scooters, and sky-bikes on tracks through the tree tops. It was very crowded and vehicle-ridden for a car-free place, but we had a nice time. The Island was used to film parts of the Korean mini-series Winter Sonata, which I watched before leaving Canada, so I was happy to see the celebrated locations. There are many artists selling their wares (the most prominent created small clay figures of peeing boys and nursing women), and to highlight the artistic nature of the island, they disguised their public washrooms as "toilart studios." There were folksy warning signs about the killer mosquitoes (no mosquitoes in Korea - hah!), live concerts and comedians, and pretty scenic views of the waterway, and strange little cottages you could rent if you wished to stay over on this crowded lively retreat. On the way home we were stuck in traffic as usual, but we were diverted by the hawkers selling snacks, fruit and sundries right in the middle of the 8-lane expressway. Personal safety is not paramount in this city.
On Buddha's Birthday (8th day of 4th lunar month, another National Holiday), we took advantage of VIP seating for the lantern parade. The lanterns were lovely, and the giant illuminated paper creations quite astonishing (Jamie particularly enjoyed the young Monk riding Thomas the Tank Engine, and Pororo hugging a baby Buddha). Temple congregations work all year to create their own hand-held and float lanterns and come out in vast numbers (it's all about quantity) to show their stuff. Many lucky parade-viewers were given lanterns, but by the time I know I should be shouting for one, my babies had had it and we headed home. It was a very very long parade. Before the show there was a Buddhist street fair, and we were illuminated further by the many English-language signs advertising booths devoted to such things as "Stamp! Realize! Love!," "Good day, Good people, and sharing clothes!," and "Imagination the Buddha." We were the only foreigners who didn't make a lotus lantern, or queue to have old men write us out a family precept, but we watched them bathe a statue, we made a fish lantern and stamped our way to love, or at least a bandana for Jamie.

A while back my supper club went to a high-end Noraebang for Korean karaoke. Your group is given a private room with microphones, instruments, a playbook, a video screen, a plate of fried food, many beers and a bottle of whiskey (for beer bombs - but this is a family blog). If you happen to be a group of tone-deaf foreign women with inside connections to the music scene (?) you are also given four young Korean men who will sing to you and pour your drinks and dance (??). They will also, it seems, perform a magic show complete with live bunnies (the furry sort) who will hop around your table and let you cuddle them. Apparently a uniquely Korean experience; and as we were there for 4 hours and left nary a drop of whiskey or with any remaining vocal chord - I guess we experienced it "to the full," but enough of that.

Look, here are some beautiful Spring flowers.

This is the police presence mustering in preparation for a protest. Guess who was protesting? Handicapped children. I tried to capture the scene where the police had downed a young woman in a wheelchair - but you will just have to imagine it. Apparently every week the few remaining "Comfort women" (victims of Japanese soldiers during the occupation) come out to protest and demand an apology from Japan and many Japanese tourists run up to apologize to them individually, but I haven't seen this myself. I have seen many student marchers, and more mustered police - but so far everything remains orderly.

Ah Korea, how I love that you mob my children wherever they appear; that you provide for them playrooms filled with large teddy bears to jump upon; that your stations have child gates, your potties have baby seats, and your department stores nursing rooms. How I love that you use English without really understanding it; that you name your English schools things like "Toss English" or "Prestirium Language Institute"; that it's okay to name your tandem bikes "Lespo"; that your beach signs warn against "regretful things" that will make your family and friends "feel sad by acceidental mistakes,"and your "underground cave experiences" need to have a no high-heel policy. How I love your enthusiasm for participation which leads to mobs of old ladies sharing a three-person train seat, tourists joyfully indulging in pre-programed "experiences" to the delight of gathered crowds (here, underneath the bikes for lesbians, an ajumma does some top spinning), and also makes you think that one motorbike store is good, but 150 motorbike stores are better, and causes you to believe that the best business to open on my street with 17 coffee shops is another coffee shop. So there are my notes; some sour, some sweet, and life tinkles along until we meet again. Good night and a "Mobile Flash Butt Welding Machine" to you all.