I really liked being a tourist when my friend Isabel came to stay at the end of the summer. Taking advantage of my nanny, we had a couple of baby-free days of just exploring parts of the city that I have always meant to spend more time in. Namdaemun market, pictured above, for example, still manages to take my breath away with its sheer number of ... everything. On this visit we were particularly struck by the sparkly belly-dancing gear, the dark food-alleys, the dank basements of imported goods (like the Creap Coffee featured above) and a wide array of gifts you wouldn't wish on anyone - like the robotic soldier toy who crawls along the ground preparing to launch his assault, the potty-sitter with sounds to match, and the temple socks declaring the surrounds a no-fart-zone. As always the range of vibrantly patterned polyester Ajumma clothes, complete with permed and visored Ajummas who don't hesitate to try on sequined cross-trainers (does this shoe fit?) and floral stretch-pants in public, won my vote for best Namdaemun sight.
Insadong: another perrenial favorite. We had a relaxing rainy stroll exploring the shops and galleries of Insadong-gil, and this time we did two big tourist tickets: the Old Tea House (yes, it's really called that) with its range of warm fruit teas, aging woodwork and live free-flying birds, and Sanchon Buddhist Restaurant, with it's lotus flower interior and fresh mountain fare. I really enjoyed both, perhaps because we caught them on a quiet rainy Monday, the better to evoke the traditional ambiance of the places, and that apart from us, they were fairly tourist-free. But the fact is, I like being a tourist in Seoul. It's not as though I am ever going to fit in, or fully understand what's going on - so why can't I just stand out, and take in what the city has to show me? If the shoe fits - I should probably wear it. Unless, of course - it's a a high-heeled Korean shoe. Which brings me to Dongdaemun. Apparently most of the big department stores here in Fashion Town are closed Mondays, but that allowed us to spend some time in the back alleys. We found Toy Street, Work-shirt Street, and Shoe Town. In this district you can wind your way all along the path of life for the perfect Korean shoe. Shops selling rubber soles, high heels (just the heels), buckles and embellishments give way to alleys and alleys of vendors of the finished creation. It is indeed an amazing sight, and a good source for craft supplies if you are of that persuasion. If the shoe doesn't fit - take it apart and make a different one.
Apart from permitting the exploration of some of my favorite neighbourhoods in more detail, and at a more sedate pace (we also did Bukchon Hanok village and I finally found the elusive Jeongdok Public Library and an education museum that may be child-friendly), Isabel's visit also took me to places as yet unseen. We went to Jogysa Temple in Insadong, but sight-seeing amidst the prayers and chanting was a little uncomfortable. Visiting the Bongeun Temple (1488) near COEX seemed less intrusive. Close by the temple is the "three royal tomb park" (Seonjeongneung) where the Bongeun Temple's founder, Queen Yun, lies buried. The Temple-tomb-trek here is a good one for visitors, offering a taste of historic Korea amidst the furiously-forward-facing-future-friendly COEX sky-rises. We lost our camera at the tombs, but responsible Brian went back for it an hour later. The delighted guards, who had been waiting for that foreign fellow they saw in the photos to appear in real life, happily handed it over. The shoe quite visibly fit. And here, below, are the photos that the guards had to entertain them in the duration. Those foreign children sure are cute!
