Mid-August we went on our first Korean mini-break and drove to Sorak National Park in Gangwan Province (Heavenly Blessed Land: Gangwan-do). The drive was quite lovely with mountain views and glimpses of the East Sea (Koreans don't say the Sea of Japan). Upon arrival, we took the Sorak Cable Car up Kwangomsan (a high, and very windy mountain), and admired the vista. There was a very small temple (Allak Temple) harboring a very wide monk with very bad cell-phone reception. I may have preferred chanting to shouting - but you have to stay connected I suppose.
Day two we trekked the easy Piryang Waterfall Trail, to admire the 13 waterfalls along the path and marvel at the trail's namesake that is said to look like a great flying dragon wending its way down the rocks. Climb was a bit rocky and unstable at times, but Jamie is a trooper and Iris enjoyed the ride. It was amazingly refreshing to be away from Seoul, and the mountains were indeed lovely.
The area is also a big beach destination. The East Sea beaches are lined with tenement no-frills pensions, tourist draws (horsewagons, family bikes, an Edison phonograph museum, and a man-made lake to stroll about), and boast sandy beaches equipped with requisite inner-tube rentals and beach umbrellas. Once again the beach day we chose was a rainy and windy one - but we played a bit for form's sake.
At the entrance to the National Park is Shinhungsa Temple which boasted a very large Buddha, vibrant guardian statues, and dragons adorning the stairwells. Jamie and Iris really like running about in sandy temple grounds, and mountain temples are extremely picturesque.
We stayed in the Kensington Stars Hotel, a British Theme Hotel complete with double-decker buses (this one unfortunately advertising something slightly rude), royal nick-knacks and peeling Victorian-inspired wall-paper. There were oh-so-British family Norebangs in the basement, but we did not indulge. The hotel had a great location, but not much else in its favour.
A few asides. Bottom right are the anti-tank defenses that line the roads. When blown up, they litter the highway with heavy concrete blocks preventing enemy passage. Top right are pictures of the Tyrolean-hatted bear and his small cub who offer advise throughout the National Park. The mountains are known for Sanchae or mountain vegetables, renowned in Temple food. The easier trails come to groups of colourful kiosks where women sit sorting and washing these chewy and slightly furry delicacies (centre bottom). Sanchae bibimbap (mid-left) is a regional dish that we ate at practically every meal while away. My jaw muscles were very strong by the end of the trip. Soraksan was well worth the visit, and would be stunning (though crowded) in the Autumn. The beaches probably merit another look next summer. Jamie thought it was all too far away and there wasn't enough for kids to play - but that was only because he wasn't allowed to stop at the giant Santa's Bouncy Castle at Sokcho beach. Next time we will take Brian to the Edison museum and let Jamie take a wagon ride. I will be happy to merely gaze at misty mountains and chew furry roots.
